Permanent Makeup Pigments Explained: The Different Types and How They Age

If you're considering permanent makeup, you’ve probably spent plenty of time thinking about the shape and colour you want. But something that’s discussed far less often is what type of pigment is being placed into your skin- and what may happen to that colour several years from now.

Permanent makeup pigments aren't all the same. Different formulations can fade and change in different ways, and understanding this is particularly important when choosing treatments such as microblading, powder brows, lip blush and permanent eyeliner.

Is permanent makeup really permanent?

Despite often being called semi-permanent makeup, permanent makeup is a form of cosmetic tattooing.

The colour will usually soften and fade over time, but this doesn't necessarily mean that every trace of pigment will eventually disappear. Some pigment may remain visible in the skin for many years.

How quickly permanent makeup fades depends on many factors, including:

• The type and colour of pigment used
• How much pigment is implanted (saturation)
• The depth and technique used by the artist
• Your skin type and natural skin tone
• Sun and UV exposure
• Skincare products and treatments
• Your individual immune response
• The area being tattooed

This is why permanent makeup should always be considered a long-term commitment, even when it's described as semi-permanent by some artists.

What are permanent makeup pigments made from?

Permanent makeup pigments are generally made using organic, inorganic or hybrid formulations.

The words organic and inorganic can be slightly misleading. In pigment chemistry, “organic” doesn't mean natural, chemical-free or organically grown. It refers to the chemical structure of the colorant.

Likewise, inorganic pigments aren't necessarily less safe or lower quality. They are simply a different class of pigments.

Inorganic pigments

Inorganic pigments commonly include mineral-based colorants such as iron oxides.

Iron oxides have been widely used in cosmetic tattooing, particularly for eyebrow colours. Different combinations can be used to produce browns, reds, yellows and darker shades.

One of the reasons artists may choose these pigments is the way they can soften over time.

However, colours don't necessarily fade at exactly the same rate. As a brow ages, the balance between the different colour components can change. This can sometimes cause older permanent makeup to appear warmer, cooler or otherwise different from its original colour.

Organic pigments

Organic pigments are carbon-based colorants and are often capable of producing strong, bright and highly saturated colours.

Many modern permanent makeup pigment ranges contain organic pigments, particularly where stronger colour retention or vibrant shades are required.

Certain organic pigments can be very resistant to fading. This can be useful when good colour retention is wanted, but it also means that some permanent makeup may remain visible for a very long time.

As with inorganic pigments, the different colour components within a formula may not fade at identical rates. The colour you see several years later may therefore be different from the colour immediately after the treatment.

Hybrid pigments

Many modern permanent makeup ranges are hybrid formulations, meaning they contain a combination of organic and inorganic colorants.

This allows manufacturers to take advantage of different pigment properties to create a particular colour, opacity and level of retention.

For clients, the important thing isn't necessarily whether a pigment is labelled organic, inorganic or hybrid. What matters more is how the formulation behaves in the skin and whether the artist understands how to work with it.

Why do eyebrow tattoos sometimes turn grey?

You've probably seen old eyebrow tattoos that have developed a grey or bluish appearance.

There isn't one single reason this happens.

Pigment selection can play a part, but so can the depth at which the pigment was implanted, the client's skin undertone, the original colour used, saturation and the way individual colour components have faded.

This is one reason permanent makeup isn't simply a case of choosing a brown colour from a bottle.

An experienced artist considers your natural colouring, skin, existing brow hair and how the chosen pigment is likely to heal before selecting a colour.

Why do some old brows look red or orange?

The opposite can also happen.

A brown pigment is usually created from several different colour components. If the cooler or darker components fade more quickly than the warmer components, an old eyebrow tattoo can eventually appear warmer, redder or more orange than it originally did.

This doesn't necessarily mean the brows were originally tattooed orange. It is the remaining pigment that you're seeing.

Depending on how much pigment remains, older brows may sometimes be colour corrected. In other situations, permanent makeup removal may be a better option before tattooing them again.

What happens to black permanent eyeliner?

Permanent eyeliner deserves particular consideration because very dark pigments can be extremely long-lasting.

Black pigment can gradually soften as it ages, but clients should never assume that permanent eyeliner will completely disappear.

This is particularly important when choosing the shape and thickness of an eyeliner tattoo. Trends change, faces change and eyelids change as we age.

For this reason, we generally favour eyeliner designs that complement the natural eye shape and are likely to continue looking flattering over time.

How does lip blush pigment age?

Lip blush is slightly different because the natural colour of the lips has a significant influence on the healed result.

Freshly tattooed lips can initially look much brighter or stronger than expected. As the lips heal, the colour usually becomes considerably softer.

Over the following years, lip blush gradually fades and loses intensity. How the colour changes will depend on the pigment formulation, the original lip colour, lifestyle and individual retention.

This is also why the colour immediately after a lip blush treatment should never be judged as the finished result.

Can permanent makeup pigments change colour over time?

Yes.

All tattoo pigments are exposed to changes within the skin over time. Individual pigment components can break down at different rates, while your skin itself also changes.

Sun exposure can accelerate fading, and skincare treatments and products may also influence how permanent makeup ages.

The important question isn't simply:

“Will my permanent makeup fade?”

It's also:

“What is likely to be left behind when it does?”

That is something a good permanent makeup artist should consider when selecting pigments and planning your treatment.

Can old permanent makeup be tattooed over?

Sometimes... but not always.

If your previous permanent makeup has faded considerably and the remaining shape and colour are suitable, it may be possible to refresh or correct it.

If there is a lot of old pigment remaining, simply adding more pigment on top isn't always the best solution. Continually layering new pigment over old permanent makeup can eventually produce an overly saturated or heavy result.

In these situations, some laser or saline permanent makeup removal may give us a better foundation before creating new brows.

If you've had your eyebrows tattooed previously, it's always worth having them assessed before booking a new treatment.

Does laser removal work differently on different pigments?

Yes, which is another reason knowing what has been used in your skin can be useful.

Different pigment colours and formulations can respond differently to laser treatment. Some cosmetic tattoo pigments can also temporarily darken when treated with certain lasers because of components within the pigment.

This doesn't necessarily mean that the pigment cannot be removed, but it does mean permanent makeup removal should be approached carefully.

Depending on the pigment, colour and previous treatment, laser removal, saline removal or a combination of approaches may be considered.

Should I ask my permanent makeup artist what pigments they use?

Absolutely.

You don't need to become a pigment chemist before having your eyebrows done, but your artist should know what products they're using and why they've chosen them.

More importantly, look at the artist's healed work.

Fresh permanent makeup photographs show you what an artist can create on the day. Healed photographs give you a much better indication of how their work actually settles into the skin.

Choosing permanent makeup that will age well

Good permanent makeup isn't just about how your brows, eyeliner or lips look when you leave the studio.

It's about thinking about how they may look one year, three years or even longer into the future.

Pigment choice is only one part of this. Technique, depth, saturation, colour selection and design all contribute to how permanent makeup ages.

That's why we favour a considered approach rather than simply making permanent makeup as dark or bold as possible at the first appointment. Colour can always be strengthened at a second session if necessary.

Ultimately, permanent makeup is a tattoo. It will change and soften as it ages, but you should never have a treatment based on the assumption that it will simply disappear.



Thinking about permanent makeup or concerned about an existing cosmetic tattoo?

You can book a consultation with Dana to discuss microblading, powder brows, permanent eyeliner, lip blush, colour correction or permanent makeup removal and find out which option is most suitable for you.